Desert Days – Adventure Climbing Episode 2

Moab, Utah.

We camped right outside of town on this open range area. There was a corral right across the dirt road from us filled with cows that were very noisy…very noisy. But it made our time at camp pretty interesting. By the time we drove into Moab, it was pretty dark and my tent and sleeping bag were still pretty wet from packing up in the rain. I ended up sleeping in the back seat of one of the pickups we had. It was glorious.

View from inside Day Canyon, at the base of Working Class Hero.

We woke up early and drove out to Day Canyon. The hike into the canyon is gorgeous. It’s a longer approach than most places in Moab, but it’s entirely worth the climbing.

Working Class Hero is a great 5.9 trad climb that’s pretty nice for small hands. The crack widens a little halfway up and was a little awkward for me, but a perfect fit for others with larger hands.

A couple members of our group split to do a route called Pocket Rocket. Apparently it was awesome fun climbing. It looked really fun from the ground. Unfortunately I don’t have a picture or an idea of what the climb was like besides huecos and pockets.

My favorite climb in Moab that we did was on Bootleg tower. A few members of our group split and aided up the tower and set up a top rope for the rest of our group to climb. The route we stuck to was a line called Moonshine that’s rated at 5.10c on Mountain Project. It starts in a wide chimney – I was practically doing the splits – and you grab this high ledge and pull over onto the tower all gymnastic like. Follow this beautiful arete on the left until you reach a thin crack out to the right. The crack ends and there’s a bomber ledge that if you’re short you might have to throw for and that’s exciting. After the ledge, it’s pretty climbing til you reach the top.

Bootleg Tower.
Bootleg Tower.

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